To insulate or not insulate? That is the question.
I know, I know, we’re not in high school drama class anymore, so I should just quit with the amateur theatrics, but I like to think of myself as a an expert forever bound to the chapel of the arts. . . Ha, that’s not true. I know as much about acting as I do about fixing motorcycles, which in layman’s term means, “not much.”
To get back on track, today we’ll be going over the topic of insulated ducts. “What ducts,” you may be asking. Well, look above you. What can you see? If you’re in a normal part of your home, you’ll probably just see the celling, but if you’re in a basement or an uncompleted room, you may see an intricate layer of ductwork and pipes connecting gas lines, water lines, and air ducts. This is what I mean by ductwork.
A typical lined duct.
If you take a look at them, you may notice that they’re just galvanized steel ducts which help in the transfer and circulation of air throughout your home. However, like many fragile HVAC components, ductwork should be insulated, especially if there is an obvious difference in the air surrounding the duct and the air traveling within it.
Insulation is applied to help enhance thermal performance and prevent condensation and dripping, which if left unattended could turn to mold. Without proper insulation, the air will need extra heating or cooling just to retain its desired temperature. Another negative effect is that since the air requires extra heat and cold to keep its temperature, you’re throwing away unnecessary money on high energy bills.
Along with the benefits of having insulated ducts in your home, there are always some cons to purchasing this sort of thing spontaneously. Insulated ducts tend to cost much more than uninsulated ducts and installation can be messy. So, if you add in the cost of purchase and then the cost of labor, you’ll be spending a few hundred extra dollars to protect your home.
If you haven’t already thought of it, take a peek inside your ducts. A clean duct should have no stale or stagnant water smell, no musty air smell, no large pockets of collected dust, and no visible mold growth. When you’re looking into your ductwork, however, don’t simply notice if it’s clean—notice if it’s INSULATED. The kind of insulated ducts I’ve been talking about for the past few paragraphs are the kind that have a layer of insulation on the INSIDE. If your ducts aren’t insulated, take a look at purchasing some exterior insulation, which is vastly cheaper and often comes in bulk.
- Duct insulation sleeves – Come in pre-measured lengths. Simply snip to size and fit over your duct. Generally made of foam, bubblewrap, and fiberglass.
- Foil-backed self-adhesive foam – Wraps around duct like a blanket. Best when combined with other, thicker insulation pads to reduce noise and increase insulation rating. Not made with fiberglass!
- Fiberglass and cotton duct insulation – Generally comes with an aluminum foil backing to repel moisture invasion or air leaks. Comes in various thicknesses and are often the cheapest of the insulation pads. Simply cut to size and wrap around.
- Foil-backed bubblewrap – Come in a variety of brands. Pick the more expensive ones to ensure satisfactory insulation power and vapor barrier performance. Unfortunately, you have to do a few extra steps before you install this type of insulation—it’s a hassle and should be careful considered before purchasing.
If you’re interested in protecting your home by purchasing insulation, make sure you stop by plumbersstock to check out the great deals! Click the image above to be redirected to my favorite plumbing and home improvement store!
A Plumber' s Daughter 